November 02, 2006
Welcome to another edition of my newsletter. Sit down, relax and enjoy!
Features:
-- all about "hot mud" for plaster repair
-- preparing your plaster surface
-- motivation for the weary
-- some fun stuff
-- sparkling new website to check out
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First of all, why is it called "hot mud"?
When the first commercially available, quick-setting joint compounds came out (I think in the 60's or 70's), they had a peculiar feature.
When a batch of newly mixed quick-set mud reached its set time and began to harden, it got warm. This was due to the chemical action of the material. It gave off heat. Hence, people started calling it "hot mud".
Many of today's fast-set compounds no longer do this. I guess the chemical formula has changed. But the name stuck.
So what's so great about hot mud?
Let me extol its many virtues. Here's why I call it miracle mud.
--it speeds up the job.
Since I specialize in smaller projects, I find hot mud to be indespensible. Without it, I would have to make more trips to each job.
Here's why. With regular all-purpose joint compound, each operation has to dry thoroughly before the next step can be undertaken. For example, you put on the drywall paper tape over the seams/cracks. Let dry overnight. Next day, apply first topping coat. Next day, final topping. (Some seams or cracks may require an extra coat, so that means one more day.) Next day, texturing.
You see what happens. The job drags out. As someone who does this for a living, I want to reduce the number of trips to the smaller projects I have scattered all over the city. Saves time and gas and keeps my customers' costs down.
With hot mud, I can tape and top coat over the tape the same day. Or, if I am skimming out a wall or ceiling, I can put on two or more coats the same day. Then the second day, I can do the final touch up topping and then texture the following day. So, I still have to make several trips to the job, but less than otherwise.
With holes and patches, I can do almost everything but the final operation in one trip.
I usually do the final topping coat with regular joint mud. It's a lot easier to sand than the brand of quick-set mud I normally use.
However, there is now a popular quick-set material called "Easy Sand". It's nice stuff, but I am still partial to my favorite brand. It's tougher.
--hot mud shrinks less. Regular taping or all-purpose muds work well within their limited range of application. But they shrink too much for filling larger voids or gaps in material. Hot mud is perfect for this. Once the setting agent kicks in, the mud doesn't move. It can only shrink some before that, and then that's it. Just add another layer if necessary, and that hardens fast, too.
In drywall finishing, hot mud is great for filling broken areas and voids before the taping operation is started. The same with plaster repair. Hot mud is also good for gluing drywall backing strips for patching holes in drywall and in rock lath and plaster. --hot mud shrinks less.
Regular taping or all-purpose muds work well within their limited range of application. But they shrink too much for filling larger voids or gaps in material. Hot mud is perfect for this. Once the setting agent kicks in, the mud doesn't move. It can only shrink some before that, and then that's it. Just add another layer if necessary, and that hardens fast, too.
In drywall finishing, hot mud is great for filling broken areas and voids before the taping operation is started. The same with plaster repair. Hot mud is also good for gluing drywall backing strips for patching holes in drywall and in rock lath and plaster.
--hot mud is tougher.
When I tape and top with hot mud, or skim coat with it, I am pretty sure that I will have things glued down well. If I should have any concerns about getting good adhesion, especially over paint, I will mix some plaster bonding agent into my water before I stir in the powder.
--hot mud has variable speeds.
I use everything from 5 minute to 90 minute hot mud. Some brands may even have two or three hours of setting time. I can match the speed of setting time to the job at hand.
For these reasons (and others) I love hot mud and continue to regard it as my miracle mud.
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2. Preparing your plaster surface
Unfortunately, this is a step too easily overlooked by homeowners when they set out to fix that plaster.
Usually, you are working over paint. That paint may be dirty, old or peeling. It's absolutely necessary that the surface be prepared right if you want your plaster fix-it project to stay fixed.
dirt Warm water and a sponge can do wonders for getting dust and smudges off that plaster wall or ceiling. If you need some extra power, add a little dishwashing detergent to your water, or maybe TSP. These additives will cut most dirt, even smoke. Another alternative: Dirtex
Just remember ... if you add soap or TSP (trisodium phosphate), be sure to clean rinse the surface after your scrub coat. Otherwise, residues will interfere with the adhesion of the joint compound you use in the repairs.
old paint Some of the early latex paints were highly porous after they dried. I have had some problems getting my mud to stick to these, for some reason. So it would probably be a good idea as a first step to paint on some plaster bonding agent over the areas to be repaired.
How do you identify this kind of latex painted surface? One way I've found is to wet a small area. If the area turns darker right away, that is usually a good sign of the need for a bonder. (The paint is highly absorbent.)
peeling paint I get frequent questions from homeowners about this. Sometimes paint peels because it is getting repeated infusions of water. After a while, adhesion is compromised, and it starts to lift off. Water intrusion sources are leaky roofs, leaky plumbing, or water splashing in bathrooms or kitchens.
Other times paint peels because it just never stuck all that well in the first place. A big no-no is putting a latex or acrylic paint over oil based paint. It just doesn't really stick all that well. Yes, it is possible to put water-based paints over oil but only if the oil is very well prepared.
This means sanding to roughen the surface (be sure to remove all dust) or the use of a liquid sanding product, which chemically etches the oil coat to provide "tooth" for the latex or acrylic paint to grab onto. When sanding oil paint, though, be careful. It may be lead-based. Wear a mask, catch all dust and keep children away. In general, I wouldn't sand known lead paint. Use the chemical etch instead.
If you discover that you do have water-based paint over oil, you will need to remove it all before you do any plaster repairs. A messy job, may require a chemical stripper to soften the paint before scraping.
SIDEBAR
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How about some relaxing fun? All work and no play makes Jack (or Jill) not much fun to be around!
I came across a neat website with all kinds of fun options.
-- tons of freebies of all kinds
-- recipes
-- clean, kid jokes
-- parenting and gardening articles
-- contests
-- website resources
Check out http://www.whatalulu.com
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A friend of mine, Cheryl Cholley, has a beautiful website, filled with design, decorating, and landscaping ideas for anyone who has or wants a Southwestern style house. This means Spanish or Mediterranean styles. Great photos.
So for all of you American lovers of the desert Southwest, check it out. http://www.southwestern-dream-home.com ENJOY!
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By the time of our next newletter edition, we will have been through the Thanksgiving holiday, with family and friends and all that good food!
I am thankful for a loving wife, great kids, many good supportive friends. And a useful and fulfilling occupation, that has been able to support us all these years. God is good.
Wishing you the best of everything, and many blessings of all kinds,
Edwin Brown aka plasterguy