Plaster Cracks Repaired Permanently
With tape, you span the weakness and tie into the strong sides, stabilizing the area. The crack is now secured against opening again. Maybe you've tried the old "finger and spackle" method of plaster crack repair. You've noticed that the cracks have the habit of showing up again after you paint. With drywall tape, you have some insurance. When I say drywall tape, I mean paper tape. In general, I am not a fan of fiberglass "drywall" tape, except for specialized needs. And with good reason. Here's why. Paper tape is trickier to use than fiberglass tape, hence its popularity with do-it-yourself folks. But, done correctly, paper tape is the way to go.
How To Tape Plaster Cracks My recommendation is to use "taping" joint compound (usually marked so on the bag) if you have a lot of plaster breaks to repair. (See Materials) It's tough and sticks the tape down really well. If you can't find taping compound at your local materials supply, go with multipurpose (aka all-purpose) mud. Prepare the plaster surface and clean and fill plaster splits before you put tape over them. Check out SURFACE PREP (navigation column). Should I thin my mud? In some cases, it is a good idea to thin your joint compound a little before you start taping with it. Multipurpose mud in particular can be a bit stiff straight out of the bucket or box. Fill your mud pan and stir in two or three tablespoons worth of water. You should experiment with how much water to use. You don't want the mud too soupy. Too thin, and you'll have mud all over yourself and the floor. Mud with the right consistency will stick well to your knife (doesn't slough off too easily) and will spread easily. As you work the material, you may find that it begins to stiffen again after a while. So you may need to stir in more water occasionally. By the way, if you are taping over raw unpainted plaster, you are going to have problems with stiff mud. Raw plaster should get a coat of drywall sealer first before repairs are attempted, at least in the immediate areas to be repaired. If the repairs are extensive, then just go ahead and prime the whole wall or ceiling. What you are trying to accomplish
Your goal in taping plaster cracks is --- the tape centered and fastened securely over the broken plaster line --- just enough mud under the tape to hold it well. No hump. The seam should be as flat as you can reasonably make it. --- no skips. If your mud application is inconsistent or too thin, the tape will not stay tightly glued to the plaster surface in all places. These are some general points. Now, for a step by step tutorial on exactly how to do the taping AND the topping processes, go to how to tape plaster cracks. I really recommend you study this carefully and note the illustrations. They will be a real help to you. |